There is a Union Jack flying in Scotland, which is a certain signal one thing is up. The British flag is a uncommon sight up in these components, although Scotland stays – for now at the least – a part of the union. Principally it is the Scottish flag, the Saltire, that you just see fluttering within the chilly breeze.
In the present day, nevertheless, there is a Union Jack flying at half-mast outdoors the tiny chapel on the island of Lambholm in Orkney, all the best way up within the far north of Scotland. It is a unusual sufficient sight right here, in a spot so distant and eliminated, to make you cease and take into account its significance.
That significance, after all, is that Queen Elizabeth II, reigning monarch over this kingdom for greater than 70 years, has died. Information filtered by yesterday afternoon. In the present day, a smattering of Union Jacks may be noticed at official websites in Orkney (although personal institutions nonetheless have the Saltire flying, or the red-and-yellow Orkney flag).
The Queen has died. Even up right here on the islands it is massive information, although it is possibly not met with the identical outpouring of public grief that it’s a lot additional south in England. A couple of bunches of flowers start showing outdoors the primary church in Kirkwall, St Magnus Cathedral, after the announcement is made. I overhear an area lady point out to a different, “Effectively she’s not on our cash, so we do not have to vary it.”
Principally, Orkney goes on with its enterprise.
Lower to a few days later in Edinburgh, nevertheless, and that is not precisely the case. Sure, we’re nonetheless in Scotland, although crucially – as a taxi driver grumbles to me – so is Queen Elizabeth II.
The monarch died in Balmoral, the royal residence in northern Scotland, which implies her physique shall be transferred to Edinburgh for a brief interval of relaxation in Holyroodhouse, earlier than being carried down the Royal Mile to St Giles Cathedral, and ultimately taken to London.
Edinburgh is mayhem. Folks all over the place. Roads closed, limitations up. The procession hasn’t even arrived on the day I am wandering across the Royal Mile space and it is already filled with police, with information crews, with vacationers, with well-wishers, with gawkers.
I am simply attempting to purchase a bottle of whisky.
It is all the time a combined expertise, being caught up like this in main world occasions if you’re travelling. That Edinburgh cab driver mentioned he’d apologised to an American couple he’d pushed round, that he was sorry for the chaos in his metropolis, for the unhealthy expertise they’d most likely be having. “Are you critical?” the couple had mentioned. “We’re gonna inform our grandkids about this!”
And there may be undoubtedly some pleasure when you end up in a scenario like this, having randomly occurred to position your self on the centre of the world’s consideration. Loads of individuals wish to be right here for an occasion like this – loads of persons are attempting. Lodges in Edinburgh are booked strong. London is similar.
I’ve discovered myself in the midst of a couple of massive occasions on my travels. I used to be in Scotland, once more, when Princess Diana died, and witnessed the shock and grief of a nation. I used to be in Dubai a couple of days after Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the city-state’s revolutionary chief, the creator of the Dubai we all know as we speak, had handed away. The Emirate was in a interval of faithfully noticed mourning, the place public points of interest have been closed, bars and eating places have been closed, there wasn’t even any music allowed to be performed on the radio.
In some methods it is wonderful to be in a spot like that in a time of such significance, to have a window into what this individual meant to this place. It is a privilege to share slightly within the grief, to not point out the sense of event. In different methods, after all, it will be good to only exit for a meal.
I have been in locations the place there are mass strikes and demonstrations, seismic native occasions that can form a nation. These aren’t precisely vacationer points of interest, however they’re fascinating. I’ve occurred upon nationwide holidays, sudden celebrations of independence and id that shut all the things down, that pressure you to mould your journey plans round these unexpected occasions.
That is one thing I am doing in Edinburgh, too. I am not going again to the Royal Mile. I am staying in Leith, far-off from the motion, which is okay by me. I am additionally heading to the airport on the identical day and at across the identical time the royal procession is making its means from Balmoral, by the outskirts of Edinburgh and on to Holyroodhouse.
The streets will possible be lined with well-wishers many rows deep. The procession will transfer alongside Queensferry Highway, a serious thoroughfare which additionally occurs to be the road you’d usually use to get from Leith to Edinburgh Airport. I assume my taxi driver will go one other means.
I will not get to see the crowds who will collect, some little doubt waving Union Jacks, a uncommon sight in Scotland, possibly one of many final occasions it would ever occur.
However I am going to know I used to be there.
E-mail: b.groundwater@traveller.com.au
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