Tears of rain drizzle down the window of our minivan by means of which I could make out bald, black volcanic slopes layered in skinny veils of mossy inexperienced. Tempestuous darkish clouds portend a cold afternoon. It is not fairly what we needed for our glacier stroll after such a sunny begin to the week right here. However that is Iceland.
Sensing the temper, Audbjorg, our information, pipes up within the inimitably optimistic method Icelanders have a tendency to speak concerning the climate. “Okay, everyone,” she says. “We want the rain and we’d like the wind and we’d like the storm clouds. So to illustrate ‘thanks’.”
With that, she performs a track, a melodic superbly crafted tune by Icelandic band Dikta. It’s known as, merely, “Thanks”. It is the sort of track you fall for on first pay attention. “Thanks for the world, the world, the world,” it goes.
It prompts my very own second of gratitude for this wonderful place the place meteorological and seismic exercise dictate day by day life, the place the land bubbles and trembles, flows and erupts, smokes and mists, and the place the resilient populace bends and flexes in concord with the whims of mom nature. There’s loads to be glad about.
I am on a visit with small group tour firm G Adventures. The week-long Iceland itinerary has been constructed across the theme of wellness and it is exactly what attracted me to it.
Because the onset of the pandemic wellness figures as a obligatory addition to my journey itinerary, slightly than the luxurious it might have been in a extra regular previous.
Equally, when considering time away, I are likely to crave extra distant areas, recent air, locations that really feel wild. For returning guests the world over, like me, Iceland is proving the right vacation spot to fulfil these yearnings and right here, based mostly on my week-long expertise, is the right way to do it.
DAY ONE
COLD COMFORT AT A GEOTHERMAL BEACH
The knowledge board at Keflavik Worldwide Airport jokes that the perfect time to go to Iceland is from January 1 to December 31. I am visiting in July on the peak of an Icelandic summer time when the times are so lengthy I am having to drag the blinds at 11pm to get to sleep. In sync with the season, the sky yawns huge and cerulean blue.
With the temperature hovering round 19 levels celsius. It feels heat – good in these components for a day on the seashore. On the Atlantic Ocean within the capital of Reykjavik, Nautholsvik Geothermal Seaside (nautholsvik.is) is town’s personal Ibiza (in response to one other native joke).
It was cleverly constructed in 2000 utilizing imported yellow sand and a retaining wall to create a lagoon that mixes frigid seawater (sitting between minus two and 10 levels) with scorching geothermal water pumped from a close-by spring.
The concept is to take a dip – Wim Hof fashion – within the geothermally warmed seashore, then immerse within the naturally chilly ocean water, a course of that’s stated to spice up the immune system, amongst different well being advantages.
I am all for it, however I rapidly study that the warmed water, at 17 levels, provides me the chilly snap I might been hoping for with out the necessity to take a look at the ocean currents just like the Icelanders do.
The reward for the push of goosebumps and the ache in my extremities is a soak within the scorching tub. I be part of a throng of Reykjavik locals, for whom this can be a common exercise, within the steaming 38 diploma water, summer time solar on my face.
DAY TWO
DOWNWARD DOGS BETWEEN TECTONIC PLATES
Picture: G Adventures
Iceland is the one land mass straddling the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates that’s transferring aside by 2.5 centimetre every year.
At UNESCO world heritage-listed Thingvellir Nationwide Park (thingvellir.is), cliff-high partitions of rock mark the perimeters of the 2 plates. Guests can actually stand between them in Almannagja Valley, a flat treeless expanse carpeted in native grasses and meadow flowers with the Oxara River and lake system within the center.
The park is well-known because the birthplace of Iceland’s parliament in 930 and the stays of the open-air meeting grounds are nonetheless seen.
But it surely’s the panorama that beckons. Campers, their tents camouflaged within the hillocks, have astonishing views of distant snow-capped mountains. Walkers comply with the partitions of rock to pristine Oxarafoss waterfall with its clear icy ponds.
Snorkellers and free divers, outfitted with dry fits, sink beneath the floor of Silfra, the famed glacial water fissure between the plates.
For us it is a hatha yoga class led by Audbjorg. It is the right yoga studio. Lapping lakes to 1 aspect, mighty mountains on the opposite, greenery for miles. We dedicate the category to nature. A tree pose for stability, a mountain pose for stability, a baby’s pose with our heads bowed to this geographically wondrous land.
DAY THREE
BAKING RYE BREAD: THE GEOTHERMAL METHOD
Picture: Laugarvatn Fontana
Fontana Geothermal Baths sits proper on the sting of Laugarvatn Lake, a shallow, black, sandy physique of water heated by underlying geothermal springs. On the lake’s edge, boiling inky mineral water bubbles up by means of the volcanic sand offering a pure oven for baking conventional Icelandic rye bread.
It’s known as “hverabraud”, which interprets as “scorching spring bread” in response to our information Filipe, or just “rugbraud” (rye bread). The recipe is easy – a mixture of flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and milk poured right into a greased tin however the methodology has its quirks.
On the sting of the lake, the water gurgling scorching in puddles round us, Felipe digs beneath a small mound of grime to unearth yesterday’s loaf. The tin is silty black and burning scorching to the contact having been baked for twenty-four hours. When he removes the lid to disclose the spongy brown loaf, extra cake than bread, we’re overwhelmed by a heady whiff of gingery goodness.
Again inside, slices of bread are slathered with melted butter, and layered with slices of delicate trout, which has been fished recent from the lake and smoked by a neighborhood enterprise. It’s a style sensation.
“The land is the star,” Felipe says after we have had our fill. “I can provide the recipe, you’ll be able to cook dinner it in an oven at dwelling, however it would by no means style the identical as right here due to the water, the warmth, the minerals, the air.”
Afterwards, we soak within the various temperatures of Fontana’s 5 lakeside mineral baths. Wafts of steam rise from my arms as I stroll from the new tub to chilly lake. We’re advised it improves blood circulation and speeds muscle restoration however largely it simply makes me really feel good to be alive.
DAY FOUR
HOT FOOTING IT TO A HOT SPRINGS STREAM
“An excessive amount of climbing”, one in all my fellow travellers bemoans on the morning of day 4, however I really like the hikes. They offer me valuable alone time for strolling meditations they usually put a spring in my step, particularly once they result in one other of Iceland’s geothermal quirks.
Reykjadalur, not removed from the city of Hveragerdi the place we’re staying, is an hour-long hike to an unbelievable steaming scorching river. The hike begins steep, revealing nice plumes of steam throughout the valley the upper I trudge.
Alongside the gravelly path, trickling rivulets of water, scorching to the contact, create mini steam drifts. Miniature forests of tiny blooms and micro-herbs scramble for a root-hold on drifts of black volcanic earth, which threaten to crumble away from the mountain face at any time.
On the prime, the stream widens right into a steaming river that winds like a snake by means of fairytale pastoral greenery. Shaggy sheep, launched by farmers to the highlands for fattening over summer time, be part of me on the trail. Boardwalks and easy platforms added throughout pandemic downtime point out the place to swim.
In my bikini, I take the rickety wood steps down to take a seat in a gap shaped by the location of somewhat rock wall, the nice and cozy water swirling round my neck. It is solely 12 levels outdoors right this moment so the water, which will get hotter the nearer you go to the supply, is a heavenly 34 levels. I absorb the surreal environment with the present flowing by means of me, cleaning because it goes.
DAY FIVE
THE GREAT GLACIER CHALLENGE
Picture: G Adventures Inc
This glacier stroll is our most difficult day our time in Iceland, particularly with the temperature dipping and the climate closing in. However Dikta’s “thanks” track continues to be taking part in on my thoughts. I can do that.
Solheimajokull Glacier is part of Myrdalsjokull, one in all Europe’s largest glaciers masking virtually 600 sq. kilometres and with a lofty peak of almost 1500 metres. But it surely’s what lies beneath that captures our consideration.
Beneath the glacier with an astonishing 10 kilometres caldera is Katla, one in all Iceland’s largest and most lively volcanoes. “It erupts each 20 to 90 years,” says our information Elena, considerably too jubilantly. “It hasn’t erupted correctly for 104 years so it is positively overdue”.
With rain battering the roof, we alter into climbing boots and waterproof gear, and collect our gear – crampons, harness and pick-axe. On the base of the glacier nice chunks of ice float in a lake like a blue curacao cocktail.
Elena’s security discuss – the right way to stroll with crampons, the right way to maintain a pick-axe – distracts us from an insistent icy wind. We trudge single file from black gravel onto crunching ice conserving flat-footed so our crampons grip.
The glacier is sprinkled with positive volcanic ash, like black icing sugar, however with a chip or two of the pick-axe, the gem-like blue of ice created a millennia in the past gleams shiny like a treasure unveiled.
This journey is brief however heavy going. Water drips from my gloves and trickles into the again of my boots. Every footstep on this uncharted terrain takes a concentrated effort. It is a psychological recreation, nevertheless it pays off.
On a clearing surrounded by icy blancmange-like peaks we sit to marvel on the glacier’s ageless magnificence and meditate in its eerie silences, pleased with our success.
DAY SIX
GOING WITH THE LAVA FLOW
Lava flows from an eruption in Geldingadalur on March 24, 2021. Picture: AP
“We’ve earthquakes day by day and we anticipate volcanoes to erupt at any time,” Audbjorg says as we drive in direction of Geldingadalir volcano lava circulate. “We’re not scared, it’s a part of our life.”
Geldingadalur on Fagradalsfjall Mountain in Reykjanes Peninsula erupted final yr [2021] and for six months spewed fiery orange lava into the 2 valleys beneath it, finally filling them up like water in a shower.
“The land continuously adjustments round us,” Audbjor provides. “It is likely one of the most enjoyable issues about our nation.”
We do not argue. With mats slung over our backs we stroll up the valley, its vastness populated by the pock-marks of age-old volcanos.
From a lookout we are able to see the Fagradalsfjall caldera a number of hundred metres away and an unlimited valley full of an oily lake of strong lava, its shiny black high quality attributed to how rapidly it cools within the freezing air.
Strolling on the lava is like crunching burnt meringue underfoot. We marvel on the wisps of steam indicating warmth pockets the place we are able to heat our palms. This lava has risen from a magma chamber deeper than the ocean flooring. Our yoga poses are fittingly impressed – right this moment we’re warriors and goddesses.
A month after our journey we obtain phrase from Audbjorg that one other volcano has erupted on Fagradalsfjall Mountain – the Meradalir volcano, not removed from the place we did our yoga class. She sends the group a cheerful snap – an Icelander in her consolation zone, the lava blistering behind her.
DAY SEVEN
GEOTHERMAL HOT SPRINGS AT BLUE LAGOON RETREAT
Famed geothermal scorching springs Blue Lagoon.
My journey finishes on a heavenly excessive on the iconic Blue Lagoon (bluelagoon.com), Iceland’s famed geothermal scorching springs.
The mineral-rich milky ponds listed below are dazzling towards the black volcanic rock panorama, the weightless waters offering a day of rest surrounded by impeccable nature. I farewell the group within the public space earlier than experiencing Blue Lagoon Retreat, the luxurious day spa.
This place is epic with candlelit subterranean therapy chambers and steaming scorching swimming pools in lava corridors that I largely should myself.
Floating on my again, the cloudless sky blurs in my peripheral imaginative and prescient with the steaming waters. With telephones and cameras prohibited, that is valuable time to mentally obtain my week of wellness. The hikes and hot-cold immersions depart me feeling energised and exercised.
On the journey, the meditation classes have allowed me headspace for gratitude whereas the yoga lessons have linked me to a land the place mom nature guidelines supreme. However there’s one thing else, one thing I can not fairly articulate. Maybe Dikta put it finest: “Thanks for the world, the world, the world … thanks for the life you are making me see, inside me”.
THE DETAILS
FLY
Finnair (https://www.finnair.com/) and Qantas (https://www.qantas.com/au/en.html) have codeshare flights from Melbourne to Reykjavik by way of Singapore/Bangkok/Hong Kong and Helsinki from AUD$2366 return.
TOUR
A seven-day “Wellness Iceland” journey with G Adventures begins from $4469 an individual travelling from the Icelandic capital Reykjavik return. The value contains upgraded lodging, actions talked about, personal transportation, choose meals and a “chief expertise officer” to steer the journey all through. See gadventures.com
TAKE
Be ready for rain, solar, wind and snow even in summer time when the highlands can get chilly. Necessities embody windproof rain jacket, winter coat, waterproof backpack cowl, fleece prime/sweater, lengthy pants, woollen layers, gloves, hat, swimsuit, trainers, climbing boots/sneakers, thong-style sneakers for decent spring visits, massive towel, snug clothes appropriate for yoga, face towel, journal, water bottle, Keepcup. Glacier hikers can rent waterproof jackets, pants, gloves and (important) climbing boots with ankle helps.
See www.gadventures.com.
MORE
Penny Watson was a visitor of G Adventures (www.gadventures.com) and Blue Lagoon Retreat (www.bluelagoon.com)
FIVE MORE THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN ICELAND
WANDER THE WATERFALL WAY
The much-photographed Skogafoss has a 60 metres drop that creates rainbows within the sunlit mist. Seljalandsfoss, of comparable peak, has a path behind the wall of cascading water. Gullfoss is broad and thunderous, cascading over three tiers.
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN ART
Reykjavíokay Artwork Museum’s Hafnarhus (listasafnreykjavikur.is), in an edgy warehouse house that includes reveals by famend Icelandic artists together with Erro.
VISIT AN ARCHITECTURAL MARVEL
Reykjavik’s Harpa Live performance Corridor’s (harpa.is) glass geometric facade displays the close by harbourfront and the nation’s basalt landscapes.
GAZE AT A GEYSER
In Haukadalur valley in Iceland’s south-west, Strokkur is a scorching spring geyser that spectacularly erupts boiling scorching water 20 metres into the air each seven or so minutes.
WORSHIP A LANDMARK
Rising virtually 75 metres on a hilltop, Reykjavik’s Hallgrímskirkja (hallgrimskirkja.is), or Church of Hallgrimur, is likely one of the metropolis’s most eye-catching cultural icons which took greater than 40 years to construct.
The author was a visitor of G Adventures (www.gadventures.com) and Blue Lagoon Retreat (www.bluelagoon.com)
