Dante’s Peak in Ciociaria: Discovering Patrica and Monte Cacume.

The 12 months 2021 witnessed a flurry of occasions centred on the 700th anniversary of Dante’s dying and a small, inconspicuous city within the historic area of Ciociaria south of Rome selected to have a good time its very personal, small reference to “il Sommo Poeta”.

Patrica rests, partly hidden from sight, on a hill that descends gently from the japanese edges of the Lepini mountains, overlooking the Sacco valley and within the shadow of Monte Cacume. This conical peak, although modest in peak – its altitude is just below 1,100 metres – is seen from afar and it’s topped by a 14-metre excessive metal cross positioned there in 1903 by the inhabitants of Patrica in honour of the Jubilee 12 months of 1900, which befell throughout the papacy of Leo XIII (a choice of footage on show within the chapel on the mountain paperwork the native inhabitants’ efforts).

Nonetheless, this curious function just isn’t the primary motive why the mountain is uncommon, in spite of everything there are crosses of all sizes and shapes on most Apennine peaks, however somewhat as a result of students consider that Dante, who travelled by Ciociaria and mentions different locations within the area (similar to Anagni), cites this particular peak within the following verses of Purgatory (IV, 25-27):

“Vassi in Sanleo e discendesi in Nolli;
montasi su in Bismantova e in Cacume con esso i piè;
ma qui convien che omo voli”.

In these verses, Dante compares the steep path that he walked with Virgil on his journey to Purgatory – a sense with which any novice hiker can empathise – with the troublesome ascent to 4 distinct places, amongst which he lists Monte Cacume.

Dante visited Ciociaria on the very least on two events, in 1294 and in 1301 when he was a member of a Florentine delegation that paid homage to Pope Celestine V (the pope of the Nice Refusal) and Pope Boniface VIII (the pope of the Anagni Slap) and it’s probably that the mountain peak left an impression on the poet.

Nonetheless Dante would haven’t discovered immediately’s marked path so demanding as it’s a average one which departs from Patrica and will be accomplished in three hours. Extra bold hikers can comply with a number of different trails that lead deeper into the Lepini mountains (sadly, not a protected space but) and are described in Stefano Milani’s current Italian-language information, Monti Lepini. Guida Escursionistica.

If you end up, nonetheless, out of breath – in spite of everything there’s an elevation acquire of just about 700 metres to be tackled – it can save you face by halting on the many statues product of weathering metal that dot the path. Every statue, created by native artist Cesare Pigliacelli and put in by volunteers from the native affiliation L’Orchidea di Patrica, represents  character described in Purgatory – although their punishments should not as thrilling as these reserved for the dwellers in Hell – together with the verses that accompany that character’s story.

As you ascend previous the totally different terraces of Purgatory, abandoning nice names similar to Manfred of Swabia or Barbarossa, you end up, symbolically, nearer to Paradise and upon reaching the height, with views that attain so far as the Pontine archipelago, the climax is the fateful encounter that marks Dante’s subsequent journey: you possibly can uncover who that’s for yourselves!

The mountain has a curious geological historical past; it’s partly a klippe, an remoted residue of an older carbonate layer positioned, because of tectonic actions, on prime of newer waterproof clay layers. That is the explanation why there are such a lot of springs alongside the poorly marked path that circumambulates the height which requires an extra 30-40 minutes and why the realm is such a botanical treasure trove with dozens of untamed orchid species (go to in Could and early June and also you’ll be rewarded with a treasure trove of wildflowers).

Additionally, hold a watch out for the sparse ruins of the mediaeval Benedictine monastery and the fortified settlement often known as the Castrum Cacuminis that when stood on the mountain: a seemingly impregnable place.

When you plan your hike within the early morning or within the early afternoon, you need to embrace a lightweight meal on the solely restaurant within the outdated city, the small and pleasant Comedia Bistrot (ebook prematurely), or cease off on the native pasticceria Ricordi Lievitati.

It is usually strongly really helpful exploring the outdated city: attempt to spot the mysterious symbols that seem on the keystones of a number of stone portals and observe, discreetly, the bizarre figures that beautify the secluded Giardino all’Italiana of the Sixteenth-century Palazzo Spezza, named after a noble household of Spanish origin that has owned the palace because the 18th century.

By Jan Claus Di Blasio

HOW TO GET TO PATRICA

Patrica is greatest reached by automotive from the Ferentino exit on the A1 motorway, nonetheless there are restricted Cotral bus connections from Frosinone prepare station for these with out a automotive.

Images tip: the perfect viewpoint over the city of Patrica is positioned by the statue of Belacqua, a minor character from the Divine Comedy who was punished for his indolence and laziness!

This text was printed within the July-August 2022 version of Wished in Rome journal.